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Helldorado Days

When I first moved to Las Vegas, a new acquaintance described it as “a sweet Western town.” I remember thinking he was nuts, but over the course of the last seven years, I’ve begun to discover what he was talking about. Often completely overshadowed by the glitz of the Strip is a community whose members ride horses, cultivate beards, and reminisce about the good old days when all it took to cause a traffic jam on Las Vegas Boulevard was three Packards and a milk wagon.

Nothing illustrates the “sweet Western town” face of Sin City better than Helldorado Days, a festival that’s been taking place every spring since 1934 (except for a several-year hiatus a while back). Sponsored by the local chapter of Elks, Helldorado Days feature golf, poker, and trapshooting tournaments, a trail ride, a carnival, an art show, a “Whiskerino” contest, and a parade. Last night, I drove to downtown to take in the rides, the beards, and the floats.

The “Western village” at Center (where the carnival was held) was the site of the Whiskerino contest. It was easy to tell who the contestants were, and several had nice Marshall Dillon-style duds on to complement their facial fur. The prizes were belt buckles impressive enough to make a bull rider jealous, and they were awarded in several categories, including “blackest,” longest,” and “most unusual.” “Most unusual” went to a man in a white suit who could easily get a job impersonating Colonel Sanders. “Best overall” went to a gentleman with a neatly groomed salt-and-pepper beard and authentic Western gentleman outfit.

After the whisker show, I headed over to Fourth Street, where the Helldorado Parade was scheduled to begin around seven. That gave me time to enjoy a bite to eat at the new Hennessey’s Tavern on Fremont Street (across from Neonopolis).I’m happy to report that it’s a nice spot with good food and tables both inside and out.

Mayor Oscar Goodman and his wife Carolyn led the procession on foot. As they passed a stage set up by a radio station, somebody ran out with a martini glass big enough to drown in, and it was full. Oscar happily accepted it, and the crowd cheered as he continued, sloshing a bit, on his way.

The rest of the procession included cars carrying city officials and candidates for local office, posses of people supporting various presidential hopefuls, dudes on horses, Girl Scouts, Elks on motorcycles, Shriners in funny cars, clowns, two bands, big trucks including a hook and ladder, people riding on decorated flatbeds, and a large, smoke-breathing buffalo. The big bison belongs to local celebrity James “Buffalo Jim” Barrier, a professional wrestler who owns an auto repair business and is well known for his lengthy feud with Rick Rizzolo, former owner of the Crazy Horse Too gentleman’s club.

The crowd on the street was mostly families with kids who were happy to dive for the candy tossed by marchers. If I hadn’t been sitting directly across from Fitzgerald’s Casino, it would have been easy to forget I was in Las Vegas. Except — this is Las Vegas. Danged if I don’t live in a sweet Western town.

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