Tami Cowden Cowden

Adventures in Northwestern Nevada

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Virginia CityPhoto by Mark Sedenquist
Main Street, Virginia City: Wooden
sidewalks and western charm

Ask someone to name a tourist spot in Nevada and odds are Las Vegas is the name you’ll hear. But there are other noteworthy places in Nevada, a few of which also qualify as prime tourist spots. Among them are Reno, Virginia City and Lake Tahoe – destinations that are quite a bit older than Vegas and whose histories don’t revolve around gambling, neon or the mob. My husband and I recently took a trip to the northwestern part of the state and got a whole new Nevada experience.

We took the one-hour flight from Vegas into the Reno-Tahoe airport. Compared to the airports in Vegas and Denver, this little airport seems almost quaint. But small definitely has its advantages. The walk from the concourse to the baggage claim was rather short, yet our bag was already circling on the conveyer belt as we approached. Plus, there was no line at the rental car counter.

Nevada DayPhoto by Mark Sedenquist
The annual beard contest in Carson
City draws world-class facial
hair every November 1st, “Nevada
Day.”

We stayed in downtown Reno, where the main drag, Virginia Street, is lined with a collection of casinos. Our destination was the Silver Legacy, a hotel-casino that celebrates the area’s silver-mining past. The resort complex is built around a huge contraption that is supposed to represent some piece of mining equipment, although this version is lit with green and pink spotlights. Sprinkle in some employees dressed like the TV version of old-time Western gamblers, and you have Reno’s version of a themed resort.

We had come north to attend a conference, but after reviewing the titles of the seminars available on Saturday, we ditched those plans and set out to explore. Heading south on U.S. Highway 395, we came to a fork in the road after about 10 miles. To the east, on State Road 341, lay Virginia City, the famed metropolis where the bachelor ranchers of the Ponderosa on “Bonanza” would go for supplies. To the west, State Road 431 would take us to Lake Tahoe. We decided to try both routes, starting with Virginia City, about 25 miles away.

Mark Twain's deskPhoto by Tami Cowden
Mark Twain’s desk, used during his
stint at the Territorial Enterprise
newspaper

Virginia City today is a tourist site; in fact, the entire city is designated as a National Historic Monument. Its main street is lined with old-time wooden sidewalks, and it has a number of historical museums devoted to the area’s mining and ranching history. Another popular attraction is a 30-minute scenic ride on a train pulled by a genuine steam engine. The train goes out to Gold Hill and back, offering fine views of the lush and majestic mountain scenery.

Among the city’s most famous residents is Mark Twain. It was in Virginia City, in fact, that Samuel Clemens first took his famous pseudonym, while working for the local newspaper, The Territorial Enterprise. A small antique shop in town has a museum devoted both to the newspaper and to Twain down in its basement. My husband and I walked down the steep stairs to gaze upon (and, surreptitiously, touch) the very desk where Mark Twain once sat. As American writers, we couldn’t pass up this thrill. Afterward we browsed through the Mark Twain Bookstore, which offers a huge collection of Twain’s writings, as well as other publications devoted to Western history and culture.

Like many mountain towns we know in Colorado, Virginia City takes active steps to draw tourists to the local shops. The day we visited, the town was the site of outhouse races. All “vehicles” entered in the race had to be working outhouses, and the costumed participants had to push, pull or drag that throne – complete with occupant – along the main street to the finish line.

Lake TahoePhoto by Tami Cowden
Lake Tahoe on a cold and
blustery day

Loath as we were to leave the fun of the races, we decided to forge west again to see Lake Tahoe. First we backtracked on State Road 341, and then took State Road 431 to Incline Village, a total trip of about 40 miles. We drove along the National Scenic Byway known as Eastshore Drive, taking State Road 28 from Incline Village, at the northern tip of the lake, and then making a left at U.S. Highway 50 to continue down to Stateline, near the south. The drive offered teasing glimpses of the lake here and there, with several parking areas along the way presenting more spectacular viewing. Memorial Point, a few miles south of Incline Village, has a short walking path and information about the geography, history, vegetation and animal inhabitants of the lake.

Sunshine eluded us that day, and though it was only early October, we even hit snow a few times. But the visual treat of Lake Tahoe proved well worth braving the cold. Lake Tahoe can’t compare with even the smallest of the Great Lakes in size, but in beauty it surely has no equal. Crystal blue waters surrounded by the pine- and snow-covered Sierra Nevadas make for a breathtaking sight. Those who don’t live in the West may have difficulty appreciating just how spectacular the vision of any body of water can be to those accustomed to the parched land of the desert states. Seeing such a huge natural lake, rather than one created by damming a river, is a humbling reminder that Mother Nature really does these things best.

After Sunday breakfast, we had only a few hours to spend before our plane would bring us home. But Reno bills itself as “The Biggest Little City in the World,” and there is no doubt it tries hard to present lots of recreational activities. In addition to its casino-laden downtown area, Reno is home to the National Bowling Stadium. It also has a very nice Riverwalk, where you can find art galleries and restaurants.

National Car MuseumPhoto by Tami Cowden
The Thomas Flyer at the National
Car Museum in Reno: With a
cruising speed of 60mph, these were
speed demons in 1906.

One thing that truly makes Reno stand out, however, is the National Car Museum. Started from the donation of Bill Harrah’s private automobile collection, this amazing museum contains hundreds of cars dating from the late 1890s right up to the modern day. Strolling through its four galleries, each showcasing a particular automotive era, we received lessons not only in automotive history, but also in fashion and American culture. This museum is reason enough to visit Reno.

Northwestern Nevada may not draw the same number of tourists as Las Vegas, but it still manages to offer a little bit of something for everyone. We’ll be back to explore some more.

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Comments

3 Responses to “Adventures in Northwestern Nevada”
  1. I wish you had taken some photos of the racing outhouses, I have wanted to see that event for a couple of years, but always missed it. Nice visit up there.

    One question:

    Among them are Reno, Virginia City and Lake Tahoe – destinations that are quite a bit older than Vegas and whose histories don’t revolve around gambling, neon or the mob

    Neither Reno, Virginia City nor Lake Tahoe would ever have grown to the current place in world affairs without gambling, the Mob, neon, or mining. All of those places developed because they offered gambling and other recreational pursuits to mining and, yes, Mob participants….

  2. Steph Abbott says:

    While I’ve never done the outhouse races, I can recommend the International Camel Races held annually in Virginia City (September?). It offers just another chance to enjoy that funky historic town! For more info, see http://www.visitvirginiacitynv.com/special_events.aspx.

  3. I had the good fortune to live in Virginia City for about three months, a few years back. I know where the locals go when the tourists have gone to bed. But so far I’ve missed both the camel and out house races — but thanks for the suggestion!

    LLV Publisher

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