Vegas Unexpected: The Other Road to Vegas
Saturday, March 20, 2010
If you ask just about anyone how to get from Los Angeles to Las Vegas by car, chances are you’ll get a three-syllable answer: I-15. While it’s true that Interstate 15 is the shortest and fastest route from LA to LV, it isn’t the only way to cover the distance. If you ever need to make the journey (and it works just as well the other direction, too), try the scenic route that takes you over five mountain passes and down to sea level in Death Valley. Yes, it’s longer, but if you don’t stop to explore too much, you can cover the distance in around eight hours, which is only three hours longer than you’d spend zipping past Barstow and Baker.
If you have a full day or more, there’s plenty to check out in more detail than the view through your windshield provides. You’ll pass three state parks as you leave Los Angeles, and the well-preserved Darwin ghost town is a short detour off the road as you head into the hills east of Olancha. Panamint Springs has a resort with motel rooms, campsites, a gas station, a convenience store, and a friendly saloon with a bar made out of a gigantic redwood burl.
In Death Valley, you drive by sand dunes, picturesque rock formations, and sights that reflect the influence of its gloomy name, like the Funeral Mountains and the Devil’s Cornfield. If you’ve got the time, you can take side trips to Dante’s View, which offers a panoramic vista of the whole valley, and Badwater, the lowest dry spot in the United States. You’ll also drive right by the park’s two resorts at Stovepipe Wells and Furnace Creek. Both have gas stations, coffee shops, and convenience stores in addition to motel rooms and campsites.
Furnace Creek is also home of the historic and elegant Furnace Creek Inn, which has been in operation for over 90 years. If you time your trip to reach the inn for lunch or dinner, you can enjoy views of the valley from the beautiful dining room while you enjoy a first-class meal. If you stay overnight at the inn, you can enjoy a well-appointed room with a view of the valley and vintage furnishings. There’s also a spectacular swimming pool that’s fed by a natural warm spring.
View The Other Road to Vegas in a larger map
Heading east past Furnace Creek, you’ll go past Zabriskie Point and Twenty-Mule Team Canyon, both of which are well worth detours. The road then leads out of the park to Death Valley Junction, home of the Amargosa Opera House and Hotel. From there, the most direct route to Las Vegas is through Pahrump, but most online mapping programs will route you through Beatty. If you go through Pahrump and still feel like sightseeing, you can check out Dirty Laundry, the Laundromat owned by “Madam to the Stars” Heidi Fleiss. If you’re interested, you can also take a detour down Gamebird Road to Pahrump’s X-rated attractions, the Chicken Ranch and Sheri’s Ranch.
From Pahrump, it’s about an hour’s drive “over the hump” to Las Vegas. “The hump” is the last of the mountain passes you must climb over on this route, and if you’re not anxious to get to Sin City, you can stop in for a brew with the biker crowd at the “World Famous” Mountain Springs Saloon.
Highway 160 turns into Blue Diamond Road and dumps you out at Las Vegas Boulevard not too far south of the “Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas” sign. You can easily pick up Interstate 15 and get anywhere in the valley you want to go.
This route works perfectly well in reverse, and it’s especially appealing in spring and fall. We were hoping to see wildflowers when we traveled in mid March and saw none. It hardly mattered. The changes in elevation and dramatic scenery are always spectacular, and the terrain never fails to reveal something unexpected. This time, it was puddles and pools left by recent rains and the sudden appearance of two large coyotes. We found Heidi Fleiss’s laundromat by accident, too. I just happened to remember the name from a recent newspaper story.