The Neon Museum Gets a Helping Hand

Rearranged letters from vintage signs welcome visitors to The Boneyard<br><em>Photo by Megan Edwards</em>
Rearranged letters from vintage signs
welcome visitors to The Boneyard
Photo by Megan Edwards

The first time I heard about the Boneyard, I assumed it was a cemetery of some sort, and I soon found out I wasn’t far from the truth. The Boneyard is where old neon goes when it dies—if it’s lucky. Actually, it goes there if we’re lucky, because otherwise it vanishes entirely.

Not too many decades ago, the death of old neon signs was not a matter of concern for most people. Old casino façades and burnt-out motel arrows held about as much allure as worn-out mattresses and old tires. If it weren’t for the business practices of the Young Electric Sign Company (YESCO), the company that built—and still builds—many of the large neon signs all over Las Vegas, many of the vintage signs of yesteryear would have long since disappeared into landfills.

Elvis joins Neon Museum Operations Manager Danielle Kelly at the Boneyard on Tuesday<br><em>Photo by Megan Edwards</em>
Elvis joins Neon Museum Operations Manager Danielle Kelly at the Boneyard on Tuesday
Photo by Megan Edwards

Instead of selling signs outright to the properties that commissioned them, YESCO routinely leased the signs and performed continuing maintenance on them. When a sign needed to be removed or replaced, YESCO carted off the unwanted hardware and stored it in a lot on its own property. YESCO’s collection of obsolete signs became the basis for the Neon Museum, a nonprofit entity formed in 1996 to preserve and restore vintage Las Vegas signs. Now located on North Las Vegas Boulevard next to Cashman Center, the Neon Museum has steadily progressed from a repository for old signs into a place where those who love them can visit and learn about the sparkly side of Las Vegas culture and history.

On Tuesday, the Hampton Hotels’ “Save-a-Landmark” program joined the effort to take the Neon Museum to the next level. Now in its ninth year of helping to restore roadside icons all over North America, the “Save-a-Landmark” program provided money and volunteers to spruce up the two existing Boneyards and paint the La Concha Motel lobby, an enchanting shell-shaped bit of Googie architecture that used to reside on the Strip. Thanks to major efforts and donations by lovers of mid-20th-century kitsch, the La Concha’s lobby was saved from destruction and moved north to become the Neon Museum’s visitor center.

Jerry Misko directs mural painting on the temporary La Concha Motel lobby facade<br><em>Photo by Mark Sedenquist</em>
Jerry Misko directs mural painting on the temporary La Concha Motel lobby facade
Photo by Mark Sedenquist

I thought I was showing up early this morning when I pulled into the Boneyard’s parking area around 8:30, but volunteers had been hard at work far earlier. Under the direction of Las Vegas artist and muralist Jerry Misko, volunteers were painting a mural inspired by the old Stardust sign on the temporary walls of the La Concha. The mural will be on display for about two years, Misko explained, until restoration is complete and the temporary walls are replaced with plate glass windows. When the center is finished, a painting by Misko of the La Concha in its glory days will cover the back interior wall.

The silver slipper sparkles once more from its new perch on North Las Vegas Boulevard<br><em>Photo by Mark Sedenquist</em>
The silver slipper sparkles once more from its new perch on North Las Vegas Boulevard
Photo by Mark Sedenquist

Cultural historian Chris Epting, author of The Birthplace Book and a number of other books about America’s pop culture icons and landmarks, is the spokesperson for the “Save-A-Landmark” program. When I asked him, he said his favorite sign is the silver slipper from the old hotel/casino of the same name. I was happy to see the slipper in its new location on a tall pole on the median of Las Vegas Boulevard. The last time I saw it, it was on the ground in the Boneyard, studded with broken and burnt-out light bulbs. Now, all those light bulbs are in working order, and the slipper’s toe points at the La Concha. Howard Hughes once bought the Silver Slipper in order to extinguish its lights, the legend goes, because they kept him awake in his suite across the street at the Desert Inn. It’s impossible to know if he would approve of the slipper’s rebirth, but I think I speak for most of us when I say it’s a charmingly nostalgic sight to see it twinkling again.

The sign from the old Moulin Rouge Casino<br><em>Photo by Megan Edwards</em>
The sign from the old Moulin Rouge Casino
Photo by Megan Edwards

More vintage signs will soon join the three that have already been refurbished and installed on North Las Vegas Boulevard. Like the Strip, Las Vegas Boulevard between Sahara and Washington Avenues was named a “National Scenic Byway” in October. The City of Las Vegas has partnered with the Neon Museum to install more restored signs along the corridor. Thanks to donations, grants, and the Hampton Hotels’ Save-A-Landmark Program, the Neon Museum is well on its way to making the vintage neon of Las Vegas accessible to visitors, whether they’re just driving by or stopping to take a closer look.

'Free Aspirin and Tender Sympathy' sign from the area now occupied by the new CityCenter development<br><em>Photo by Megan Edwards</em>
'Free Aspirin and Tender Sympathy' sign from the area now occupied by the new CityCenter development
Photo by Megan Edwards

Chris Epting told me that when he was driving to the museum this morning before dawn, he caught sight of the silver slipper from a distance, sparkling on its new pole. “It was sweet,” he said, and I think that sums up the appeal of all the old signs in the Boneyard. Each one has its own story, and together they form a neon timeline of Las Vegas history. The Moulin Rouge sign is there, and the Stardust, and the old drugstore sign that offered “Free Aspirin and Tender Sympathy.” The signs can make you smile, make you sad, make you think. They are, just as Epting said, sweet.

It’s also sweet to see the Neon Museum growing into something more and more people can enjoy.

Comments

8 responses on “The Neon Museum Gets a Helping Hand

  1. Megan. A life long friend of mine from France recently paid a visit and the Neon Museum and it was his favorite part of his trip to Las Vegas. It is great to see that it is getting some notice. This could be a top Vegas attraction with a little bit of money and focus from the city. Great article.

  2. Thanks, Matt! I can’t tell you how great it was to see real strides being made toward fulfilling the Neon Museum’s potential. Everybody talks about the “Mob Museum,” which will indeed be of interest to many, but the Neon Museum appeals to equal numbers, has no controversy attached to it, and it’s just so darn–still can’t think of a better word–sweet.

  3. That is tres cool! I love that old stuff, even though I’ve never seen the boneyard, er Neon Museum myself. I wish I’d know about the fix-up day before it happened, but so it goes.

  4. Steve,

    The “fix-up day” was not open to the public — it was a media event only. But you can take a tour of the boneyard — information about booking is available on the Neon Museum website. The tours are led by docents and take 1.3 hours — Pretty cool stuff. It’s really not a self-serve kind of place to visit yet — lots of exposed wiring and sharp edges keep the liability issues pretty high.

    Mark

  5. Megan: Glad you wrote about this. At the recent LVCVA meeting, the mayor mentioned the erection of the signs calling neon, “the native art form of Las Vegas.”

  6. This is very good news! I’m glad progress is being made to restore these great old signs and make them more available to the public.

  7. This is really cool. I had never heard it called the boneyard. In fact, I just learned about the place yesterday. I think it’s great that we have people who care about preserving these signs and keeping them from littering junkyards and filling in landfills.

Comments are closed.